Introducing our new Leather Chastity Jock: Designed to look and feel great while being secure, our jock is comfortable for day long wear but is not intended for full time use. Although, if you try it full time, we want to hear about it.
The jock is constructed from one piece of riveted 7-8oz latigo leather, making the cup quite secure. A adjustable and locking .75” wide oily leather cock ring is attached to the interior of the cup with chicago screws - so that you can easily clean the cock ring as needed. A keyring is included for optional use as a lock on the cockring - to prevent a luggage lock from rubbing against the top of the submissives cock.
The Chastity Jock comes in two cup sizes, Standard (See HERE) and Large. Standard allows about 4” of length for your cock and is intended prevent a comfortable erection. Large allows about 6.25” of length for your cock and is intended to allow a strained erection (or painful with the addition of the optional spikes) or for submissives with large cocks.
Both cup sizes can be obscured under jeans or other heavy weight material pants. When the “T” or “Jock” type ass straps are tight, the cup is pulled tight between the legs and does not create an outward bulge. The submissive will however need to wear pants with a low inseam so as to not create a large bulge in the inseam - especially with the large cup version. All of the locks ride away from and below most belt buckle positions - so as to be comfortable and not create a noticeable bulge.
Both cup sizes come standard with a adjustable single “T” type ass strap that can also be used to help retain a butt plug.
The locking posts on the chastity jock require 4 small padlocks (not provided) with shanks no greater than ⅛” inch or 3.5mm in diameter. Alternatively, three small locks (not provided) and a provided keyring to act as the lock for the cockring can be used. We have found Brinks #161-20471 to be a decent fit - it would be nice if the brinks lock bodies were slightly smaller and the sharp edges burnished round - they may scratch the leather.
Jock Ass Straps:
You can order “jock” type ass straps with the chastity jock initially or later if desired. The jock straps are trim-to-fit and therefore can only be used with one submissive or submissives of the same size. These straps are great for allowing easy use of the submissive's ass - and for making the ass look great. A flathead screwdriver is required to swap between T/Jock type straps. Be careful to attach the straps to the bottom of the tab on the cup (to prevent chafing) and to leave the screw head facing up - so to make it difficult to access while worn.
Row of Spikes:
A row of 6 removable spikes can be added to the LARGE CUP VERSION ONLY to help prevent prolonged erections. The spikes are at about the 4.5” point within the cup - so they do not come into contact with most submissives cocks until an erection has begun. A flathead screwdriver is required to add/remove the spikes.
Bulldog Harness Straps:
Two adjustable straps matching our Bulldog Harness (See HERE) can be used to attach our chastity jock to our Bulldog Harness for a very secure and great looking harness/chastity jock combo. The harness strap set requires the use of the single “T” strap ass strap and cannot be used in conjunction with the “jock” type ass straps. A flathead screwdriver is required to attach the front strap to the cup body. When attaching the front strap to the cup body the strap gets attached to the back of the cup body using the two empty holes at the top of the cup.
Have the following items within easy reach: Chastity Cup, Waist strap, “T” or “Jock” ass straps, Locks (and keyring, if desired).
All of the following steps should be done in a standing position.
With one hand, pull your cock and balls away from your body (it helps if they warm and are relaxed), slip the Chastity Cup around your cock and balls from below making sure that the cockring is properly flipped inside the cup - not flipped to the outside of the cup.
Holding your cock and balls in one hand, pull the cockring around your cock and balls with your other hand (just disregard the cups handling and position for now, focus on the cockring).
Attach the left side of the cockring to the lower lockingpost, then attach the right side to the lower locking post - making sure that the cockring is tight but not uncomfortably/unsafely so. Notes: The cockring should follow the contours of your shaft - it should not be twisted the opposite direction. The cockring holes from side to side should not be off more more than one hole ie: if you used hole #3 on one side you should use hole #2, 3 or 4 on the other side but not hole #1 or 5.
Install either a small padlock or the provided keyring though the cockring locking post.
Pull any hair or folds of skin out of the cockring that might otherwise get pulled or pinched uncomfortably and adjust your cock and balls downward and comfortably positioned within the cup. Confirm that the cockring fit is proper.
Flip the small padlock (if it is small enough) or keyring upward so it is not resting on the top of your shaft, then slid the upper locking post on the back right side of the jock through the hole in the back left side and then through the hole in the front of the cup and install the lock.
Waistband with “T” strap: temporarily attach the waistband on the left waist locking post, feed it through the loop on the “T” strap and attach the other end to the right locking post. Confirm that the locking post holes are proper (that you are not using hole 1 on one side and hole 5 on the other side) - adjust as needed to center the belt on the proper adjustment holes, then lock the waistband locks. If this is your first time you may need to adjust the “T” strap loop location by removing the two chicago posts and lengthening/shortening the loop position and reinstalling the posts.
Waistband with “T” strap plus Harness Straps: temporarily attach the waistband on the left waist locking post, feed it through the loop on the back harness strap, then the “T” strap, then the back harness strap again to make them interlock (See photos). Attach the other end to the right locking post. Confirm that the locking post holes are proper (that you are not using hole 1 on one side and hole 5 on the other side) - adjust as needed to center the belt on the proper adjustment holes, then lock the waistband locks. If this is your first time you may need to adjust the “T” strap loop location by removing the two chicago posts and lengthening/shortening the loop position and reinstalling the posts.
Waistband with “Jock” straps: temporarily attach the waistband on the left waist locking post and attach the other end to the right locking post. Confirm that the locking post holes are proper (that you are not using hole 1 on one side and hole 5 on the other side) - adjust as needed to center the belt on the proper adjustment holes. Pull the jock straps around your legs and up to the right and left waist locking posts (making sure not to get them twisted). Confirm that the hole number is the same on both sides. Lock the padlocks on the locking posts. Move around, bend over, sit down - after you are sure you are happy with the jock strap position and adjustment carefully cut the excess strap off with bandage/medic scissors.
As with any gear that is intended to slow bloodflow, these cock rings should be used with care. They should be immediately removed if you experience pain, numbness or discoloration.